Indian visitors to Egypt invariably get to hear the greeting “Indian? Amitabh Bachchan” when they visit street markets such as the legendary Khan e Khalili souk in Cairo. It’s a great ploy by vendors to break the ice, more often than not leading to a sale. But not all of this spiel is fake – Indians are generally liked in the country and as for Bachchan, he has an exalted status that is difficult to describe unless one sees it.

Last week, I got an opportunity to do just that. Bachchan visited Cairo to kick off the three-week India By the Nile festival hosted by the Indian Embassy and set off a storm of fandom that consumed not just the average Egyptian but also ministers, tycoons and local film stars. They all wanted a piece of him – either a meeting or a selfie and if neither was not possible just a glimpse. Thousands managed it, many more didn’t; for both it was a moment of high emotion. Several of them were openly crying at the Pyramids, where the actor gamely read out a formal speech while a large crowd of photographers and fans hung around on the stage waiting to pounce on him. And for those who could not come anywhere near him, they could – and did – pose with (and kiss) the many posters of the actor in the city.

The Indian Ambassador to Egypt, Navdeep Suri, who had started these festivals when he moved there three years ago, said Bachchan had been “exceptionally cooperative” and had almost immediately agreed to visit Cairo at his own expense to inaugurate the festival and take part in a number of events. Almost all of the functions – from a press conference to the formal inauguration at the Pyramids to a discussion at the famed Opera House – were marked by screaming crowds, often descending into chaos as those present wanted to mob him. At an Indian Embassy dinner, a formal function attended by the absolute cream of Cairo society, a veritable scrum formed around him as corporate honchos, followed by socialites and politicians all homed in for that valuable selfie. Bachchan graciously obliged.

Both young and old

My own experience with this manic fandom came at the Cairo Opera House where I was to interview Amitabh Bachchan on stage. In normal circumstances, talking to the star in front of 1,200 people would be daunting enough, but with the rising crescendo of screaming fans, mainly women, it became positively intimidating. I figured out fast enough that this was no occasion to conduct a serious discussion on Bachchan and his work when, in the middle of my introduction, a voice cried out from the dark, “I love you Amitabh” and the crowd roared in unison. My job was thus reduced to lobbing some questions at the star and allowing him to speak to his fans in his mellifluous baritone.

Bachchan has the ability to engage with whoever he is speaking to and his responses were always measured and considered, but he could be reading the dictionary for all the fans cared. Whenever he made a specific filmi reference, the volume rose significantly. Three films that every Egyptian knows and loves are Mard, Coolie and Amar Akbar Anthony and their mention was duly applauded; the younger generation is well up on Pa, Black and for some strange reason, Shamitabh – the moment he took that name they brought the house down. Ditto when he spoke about having actors in the family – the love clearly extends to the Bachchan clan.

Image of safety

Bachchan is of course not the only Indian star the Egyptians love – Shahrukh Khan too scores big in the popularity stakes, especially with the younger crowd. But adulation for the older actor cuts across generations and classes and is centred around not just his on-screen roles but his off-screen persona. Egyptians think of him as a respectable, dignified family man with impeccable manners; even tiny details such as his occasional early morning barefoot pilgrimages to Siddhivinayak Temple in Mumbai are well known. For older Egyptians, Bachchan triggers memories of watching his films on television during the holiday season, a family activity in a country where generations live in the same house. Now Bollywood movies are shown non-stop on MBC Bollywood, a Dubai-based channel that beams into the region.

Bachchan’s presence was not just a boost for the Indian diplomatic mission’s efforts at projecting soft power – yoga, handicrafts, food – it was a booster for the Egyptians too. Tourism, a main foreign exchange earner for the country, has plummeted since the 2011 revolution and the economy is hurting. By hosting Bachchan, the Egyptian government wants to show that the country is largely safe, notwithstanding the occasional instance of violence. Walking in Cairo is no more dangerous than walking in any major city, but travel advisories in western countries have kept the tourists away. Indians don’t go to the country in large numbers, despite all its attractions and bargains – the Egyptians are hoping they will. If anything, the Bachchan visit will make the welcome for Indians even warmer.