Beneath the anticipation of a new year’s beginning lies a quieter, more revealing form of reflection. An introspective gaze. An annual appraisal.

Amid conflict, chaos, and migration, there is also a growing urge to preserve and protect our heritage by studying the the history of Calcutta, not through grand monuments or official proclamations, but through the overlooked pages of 19th-century year-end directories and vernacular almanacks, produced just as Christmas and New Year celebrations were taking root in the city.

Advertisement

When we look back, we find that most chronicles of 18th- and 19th-century Calcutta rose from colonial government reports, dispatches, and gazettes, the iron voice of the state. They rendered the city in stark outline. Yet Calcutta was not born of decrees.

To know how the city actually breathed a couple of centuries ago, we must examine the dust of its streets, the pulse of its commerce, the rhythm by which ritual and routine coexisted. This requires turning away from the stately corridors of official archives towards humbler companions: the annual directories of Thacker, Spink and Company and, even earlier, those of Samuel Smith and Company, publishers of the Bengal Directory and Annual Register. Samuel Smith was also editor and part-owner of the influential Bengal Hurkaru.

Equally important are the vernacular almanacks, the Panjikas, printed by Bishudho Siddhanta, Gupta Press, PM Bagchi and their lesser-known cousins. These presses clustered around north-central Calcutta, within the College Street-Machuabazar-Girish Park triangle, alongside the Hindi Panchangs of Chitpore’s Battala.

Advertisement

The English directories and the vernacular almanacks were published at the start of every Gregorian and Hindu calendar year, respectively. English directories appeared on the first day of January. The almanacks came out on the first of Baisakh, around April 14 or 15. They were within easy reach of officials, householders, merchants, traders, travellers, clergy, and priests alike.

They guided users through addresses and auspicious hours with equal ease.

Today, they lie dormant in library basements, inside unused household chests, or in astrologers’ offices, their spines dulled, pages yellowed, edges brittle. Yet within them hums the city’s forgotten heartbeat, the quotidian pulse of 19th-century Calcutta.

The street directories and the world of Thacker’s and Bengal Hurkaru

Thacker’s Directory was first issued in Calcutta in 1864. It began as a regional guide to the Bengal Presidency. By 1885, it had expanded into Thacker’s Indian Directory, extending its reach across the subcontinent.

Advertisement

Published annually until 1960, these solid volumes became a compendium of the Empire in India. They listed European residents and “prominent” Indians, government departments, schools, foreign consulates, religious missions, mills, clubs, hotels, and hospitals. Railway lines, shipping services, telegraph offices, postal routes and rates, trade associations, learned societies, and newspapers all found space within their pages.

Nothing escaped enumeration.

Each volume also carried detailed information about city streets. Over time, they grew dramatically in size, from around 400 pages initially to nearly 2,000 by the time publication ceased.

Advertisement

Samuel Smith and Company played an equally vital role. From 1825 until the end of the Great Revolt in 1858 or 1859, the firm produced The Bengal Directory and Annual Register and its variants. These were often printed at the Bengal Hurkaru Press near Tank Square, today’s BBD Bagh, which also housed the Bengal Hurkaru and Chronicle, an English daily deeply embedded in expatriate social and commercial life and edited by Samuel Smith himself in his lifetime. Actually, Thacker’s started producing their annual directories once Samuel Smith ceased to bring out their own after the Great Revolt because there was a good demand and a ready market.

For the uninitiated, the Bengal Hurkaru and Chronicle was partly funded by Dwarkanath Tagore, Calcutta’s benevolent Medici, grandfather of our poet laureate Rabindranath, who also financed Joachim Hayward Stocqueler’s rival publication, The Englishman and Military Chronicle, launched in 1833.

What gives these directories, and their lesser-known cousins, their enduring power is the density of observation. They make the intangible tangible.

Advertisement

House by house, lane by lane, Calcutta emerges not as an abstraction but as a sequential urban journal. A name vanishes from Cossaitollah Gully one year and reappears on Chowringhee Road the next year, quietly tracing the city’s mobility and social repositioning.

They also chart the city’s physical reordering. Cossaitollah became Bentinck Street around 1876. Harrison Road, now known as Mahatma Gandhi Road, was constructed as a wide corridor between 1889 and 1892 to connect the Howrah and Sealdah railway stations. They record the disruption and cacophony unleashed when Central Avenue, now Chittaranjan Avenue, was cut through the city in the early 20th century.

City directories of 1915 and 1916 mention Halliday Street, named after Frederick James Halliday, lieutenant governor of Bengal from 1854 to 1859, for the last time. The street disappeared soon after the Central Avenue was constructed, swept aside by the Calcutta Improvement Trust, established in 1911. All that remains today is Motilal Seal’s Free College visible around the curve-side.

Advertisement

5 Chowringhee, now JL Nehru Road, once the address of Calcutta’s iconic Metro Cinema until 2011, carries a layered history spanning the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today, the repurposed site houses a modern multiplex, a shopping mall, and a rooftop lounge. Beneath this contemporary façade lies a past largely unfamiliar to the present generation.

Between 1870 and 1873, the building at 5 Chowringhee was occupied by Colonel Percy Wyndham, a soldier of fortune, veteran of the American Civil War, and publisher of the celebrated and controversial cartoon-and-comic magazine Indian Charivari.

Within the next 25 years, the 1897 edition of Thacker’s Indian Directory records that premises numbers 4, 5, 6, and 7 Chowringhee Road belonged to Whiteaway, Laidlaw and Company. The adjacent building at number 3 housed The Statesman and Friend of India.

Advertisement

By 1918, Thacker’s Indian Directory notes that the two-storey structure at number 5 housed William Leslie and Company, hardware dealers, on the ground floor, with the city’s Archdeacon’s office above. At the same time, The Statesman operated from number 6, while Whiteaway, Laidlaw continued its presence at number 7.

In 1931, according to Thacker’s Directory, The Statesman expanded further. Its entire advertising office moved into number 5, with number 6 also under its occupation, while Whiteaway, Laidlaw retained number 7. In 1932, The Statesman relocated to its own building at 4 Chowringhee Square, where it remains to this day.

In 1935, the building at number 5 was demolished to make way for the Art Deco single-screen Metro Cinema Hall, built by Hollywood’s MGM studio, marking the site’s transformation into one of Calcutta’s most recognisable entertainment landmarks.

Advertisement

Who would have guessed such an intricate historical interplay among The Statesman, the Art Deco Metro, and the legendary Whiteaway, Laidlaw? Through such entries, the directories allow us to watch transformation unfold within the city’s annual rhythm of renewal.

Economically, the directories read like inventories of ambition. Carvers and gilders, boarding houses, chop shops, confectioners, shipping firms, auctioneers, printers, and booksellers stand shoulder to shoulder with managing agency houses controlling jute mills, coal mines, tea gardens, banks, and solicitor firms. Tiretta Bazar, Radha Bazar, Bowbazar, College Street, and Dalhousie’s Clive Street emerge as dense commercial ecosystems.

They document the city’s transition from agrarian to commercial life with a precision no official report could match. They trace the movement of Chinese immigrants, both Hakka and Cantonese, in Cossaitollah, now Bentinck Street. They map civic associations, the schools, missions, philanthropic societies, reading rooms, and emerging indigenous theatres that shaped a modern public sphere.

Advertisement

And, the social hierarchy is unmistakable. Europeans are foregrounded. Indians are qualified as “prominent”. Yet within this typographical order runs an undercurrent of change. Lawyers, doctors, contractors, printers, and hotel-keepers of Indian origin begin to appear with increasing frequency. Their addresses drift southward and eastward as new neighbourhoods form within the municipal limits.

For contemporaries, these directories were indispensable. They were part address book, part city guide, part professional directory, tariff handbook, and navigational aid. For historians willing to look closely, they remain a treasure trove of urban aspiration, mobility, and identity.

Panjika versus directory panjika: almanacks as urban archives

If Samuel Smith’s and Thacker’s directories mapped colonial modernity in English, the vernacular Panjika mapped domestic continuity in the language of faith and the idiom of the land. Traditionally astrological and ritualistic, the indigenous Panjika evolved in the late 19th century under the influence of English directories, transforming into a hybrid Directory–Panjika where ritualistic almanacks absorbed street listings and civic information.

Advertisement

PM Bagchi’s Directory and Panjika, established in Bangabda 1290, or CE 1883–84, stands as a clear example of this transition. Alongside tables of eclipses, auspicious hours, and festival days, the Bengali text incorporated lists of residents and tradesmen, creating its own cartography of everyday life. A priest consulted it to determine wedding hours. A householder checked addresses. A trader turned to it for market rates or municipal assessment records.

These hybrid volumes reveal an indigenous society navigating modernity while holding to its traditions. Listings for schools and patent medicines appeared alongside religious calendars. Municipal notices coexisted with the fasting rituals of Ekadashi. Commerce and cosmology became uneasy yet harmonious neighbours.

Mostly adorned by 19th-century Battala woodcut prints, they depicted both divinity and the textures of daily life. Here, the sacred and the civic shared the same surface.

Advertisement

Why we miss them

Despite their rich information, these sources remain marginal in public memory. Once considered ephemeral, useful for a single year, they were discarded when the next edition arrived. Libraries preserved proclamations and literature, but ignored these books that aged too quickly.

Historiography rarely built bridges with these publications. The prosaic world of shopfronts, train tariffs, rituals, and daily-life listings seemed beneath its notice.

In truth, these trivialities are what cities are made of.

Advertisement

So far, we failed to understand that the mundane listings in directories and almanacks of the earlier century mirrored the shift. “De, Das & Company:, tailors and cloth-merchants of north Calcutta’s Hatibagan, the city’s traditional quarter, sold not only dhotis but also made pantaloons. The listing becomes an unnoticed anthropologist of emerging modern identities. Indigenous dressmakers stitch more than garments; they sell aspiration.

And 19th-century Calcutta recorded its transformation quietly, year by year, through these annual publications, hidden in plain sight.

Devasis Chattopadhyay is the author of Harry Hobbs of Kolkata and Other Forgotten Lives.