Ramayana: A new book lists five temples where Ram is said to have prayed to atone for killing Ravana

Along the coast of Sri Lanka lie five Shiva temples that Tamil legend says are the homes of the god of destruction, Shiva. Known as the Pancha Ishwaram, which means the five abodes in Tamil, these temples are ancient. Three of them are believed to be where Rama offered prayers to Shiva to seek his grace and absolve himself of the sin of killing Ravana. Two other temples in India, one in the southern state of Tamil Nadu and another in the northern state of Uttarakhand, are also revered sites of Rama’s reparations. This intersection (of the worship of Shiva within the universe of the Ramayana) is one that happens often over the course of the story of the Ramayana. All the primary characters – Rama, Ravana and Sita – are devotees of Shiva.

Munneswaram Temple and Manavari Temple, Chilaw (Northwestern Province, Sri Lanka)

The magnificent temple at Munneswaram on the western coast of Sri Lanka is considered to be one of the Pancha Ishwaram, an ancient temple, which as per local legends predates the events of the Ramayana. This is where Rama is thought to have realised that the sin of killing Ravana was following him and is where he prayed to Shiva for a solution.

The recorded history of the temple attributes it to a series of rulers dating back to at least the 15th century – each expanding the temple gradually under their rule. When Portuguese colonists rose in power, they destroyed the temple towards the end of the 16th century.

The temple was renovated by a local ruler in the 18th century. Today, the temple complex has five elaborately sculpted and brightly coloured temples dedicated to powerful deities such as Vinayakar (a form of the elephant god Ganesha), Vativampika (a goddess of beautiful form), Aiyanar (a folk deity of fertility, and the principal deity Munnainathar, the lord of antiquity and a form of Shiva. The fifth temple within the complex is a Buddhist shrine. About 12km (7.5 miles) north of the Munneswaram Temple is the equally elaborate Manavari Temple, a shrine where Rama is believed to have installed the first Shivalinga, called Ramalinga, for atonement.

Thiru Koneswaram, Trincomalee (Eastern Province, Sri Lanka)

This is the second site where Rama is said to have installed a Shivalinga to negate his sin. Regarded as the most sacred of the Pancha Ishwaram, Thiru Koneswaram is also believed to predate the Ramayana.

Local lore says that the sage Agastya built the temple following instructions from the god Shiva, who was pleased with Ravana's single-minded devotion to him.

The actual structure is likely to have been built in stages since 205 Bce, perhaps even

00 BcE. Significant progress was made during the reign of the southern Indian dynasties of the Cholas and the Pandyas – some of the most powerful empires in the history of the subcontinent. The temple was destroyed by the Portuguese in the early 17th century and a fort was built from its debris. In 1956, eminent science-fiction writer Arthur C Clarke and underwater photographer Mike Wilson came across its ruins, sculptures, and bronze artefacts, both underwater and on land. They also retrieved a Shivalinga which was then reinstalled at the temple.

The restored shrine opened in 1963, and is now situated within the fort built from its ruins. The temple architecture retains much of its original Tamil influences – detailed sculptures on the spires – with a splash of colour at every step. The temple, situated atop a cliff known as Swami Rock, overlooks the ocean.

Near the temple is a notable geological feature called the Ravana Abyss, also known as Ravana Cut or Ravanan Veddu.

This deep cleft in the rock face is steeped in local legend. According to local folklore, Ravana created the abyss when he attempted to detach and transport the Koneswaram temple by cutting through the rock with his sword. This act was intended to appease his mother, who was distressed by her inability to worship at the temple due to her failing health. However, Shiva intervened, causing Ravana to abandon his endeavour, leaving the rock cleft as a testament to his attempt. Today, the Ravana Abyss is a point of interest for visitors to the Koneswaram Temple.

A statue of Ravana stands near the cliff, symbolising his association with the site.

Thiru Ketheeswaram, Mannar (Northern Province, Sri Lanka)

Popularly believed to be one of the oldest Hindu temples in Sri Lanka, this site is where Rama is believed to have installed the third Shivalinga for atonement.

Literary and archaeological evidence suggests its existence for at least 2,400 years. As one of the Pancha Ishwaram temples, it is believed to have stood here long before the events of the Ramayana.

One legend traces its origins to the mythical churning of the ocean in the Puranas – an episode in which the gods and asuras together churned the ocean with a mountain to get at the nectar of immortality. The asura Ketu, however, stole the nectar and had to perform penance for the crime. This temple is said to be dedicated to repentance, which gives it the name Thiru-Kethu-Iswaram, meaning the sacred abode of Ketu’s Lord.

Some legends state that Mayan, Ravana's father-in-law and a renowned architect, built this temple as a mark of reverence.

Thiru Ketheeswaram, too, was destroyed by the Portuguese in the 16th century and rebuilt only in the 1950s.

Like the temples of Munneswaram and Koneswaram, this vibrant temple is also based on a Tamil architectural plan.

Ramanathaswamy Temple, Rameswaram (Tamil Nadu, India)

The most important pilgrimage site in the town of Rameswaram, this temple is believed to be another site where Rama installed a Shivalinga and worshipped the god to seek absolution for his crime. The story goes that Sita built a Shivalinga out of sand when Hanuman, whom Rama had sent off to fetch a Shivalinga from the holy city of Kashi (present-day Varanasi), was delayed.

Hanuman came back with a Shivalinga anyway, and both were placed within the temple – the one created by Sita was called Ramalinga, and the one brought by Hanuman, Vishwalinga. In Hindu religious thought, the temple is believed to be one of the 12 Jyotirlingas – the 12 places on earth where Shiva resides. The present-day temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, is a grand structure with 22 holy waterbodies situated within the complex – devotees believe bathing in these waters will absolve them of their sins.

Raghunath Temple, Devprayag (Uttarakhand, India)

While this site is not part of the Sri Lankan traditional tale of Rama's absolution, north Indian narratives place Rama's quest for atonement at this temple in the mountain town of Devprayag. Two rivers sacred to Hindus, Bhagirathi and Alaknanda, meet at Devprayag – riverine confluences are important sites in the Hindu belief – before they flow into the Ganga, the holiest river for Hindus. The main temple in town, Raghunath Temple, is located by the river and is up a steep climb of 100-odd steps. It is believed to be where Rama and Lakshmana both atoned for killing Ravana. The existing temple is likely to have been built in the 9th century. Unlike other sites of Rama's atonement. This temple is not dedicated to Shiva but to Vishnu – whose incarnation is Rama.

Excerpted with permission from Along The Ramayana Trail: A Cultural Journey Across India and Sri Lanka, DK Publishers.