In a new book, a doctor questions ideas about hair care products, premature greying, and more

Last weekend, as I strolled down the supermarket, my eyes scanned the colourful array of products neatly stacked on the shelves. Suddenly, I spotted my neighbours, Mr and Mrs Khanna, in a nearby row. Intrigued, I made my way over to greet them.

“Hello!” I exclaimed, smiling warmly as Mr Khanna extended his hand for a shake. They were always inseparable, but today they seemed to be arguing about something.

Mr Khanna turned to his wife and said, “Let’s ask him. He’s a doctor; he’ll know better.” Then he turned to me and said, “Dr Manan, we’re debating which shampoo to buy. My wife wants to get a sulphate-free shampoo after seeing all those ads on TV, but I’m dead against it. I’ve read some terrible things about it.”

I looked at Mrs Khanna.

“Yes, I’ve heard that sulphate-free shampoos are better for your hair. They’re supposed to be gentler and less harsh,” Mrs Khanna explained, looking thoughtful.

“Well, actually…” I hesitated for a bit before blurting out, “Sulphate-free shampoos have their own pros and cons.”

Mrs Khanna looked surprised.

Let’s first look at why sulphates are important in shampoo. Sulphates assist shampoo in removing oil and dirt from the hair. However, the hair needs to maintain some of its natural moisture and oils to remain healthy. Otherwise, it can cause dryness of the scalp and irritation. This removal of excessive moisture results in dry and unhealthy hair.

“Removing sulphate from shampoos would mean less lather. It would also cause less damage to the scalp and hair. Sulphate-free shampoos can keep the hair clean and nourished. They also help in achieving stronger, softer and shinier locks. Sulphate-free shampoos also help maintain the colour of dyed hair,” I explained and added, “However, they are known to leave the hair greasy.”

Many sulphate-free shampoos are made with milder, gentler ingredients, but not all of them are. Some of them use mild cleansers like decyl glucoside or coco glucoside. While they’re gentle on delicate scalps and hair, they often can’t remove the product build-up that many people have, which not only leaves the hair greasy, but can also be harmful in the long run.

I looked at Mr Khanna, who had an “I-said-so” look on his face.

“But seeing those ads about breakage and hair fall, I thought this would prevent me from going bald,” Mrs Khanna remarked with a sombre expression.

I was concerned now. “Mrs Khanna, haircare is not one-size-fits-all. Shampoos are not medicated magic that deliver on their promises as shown in the ads. If the hair fall is severe, it’s advisable to consult a dermatologist or a trichologist. They can assess your scalp and hair condition and recommend products that are medically approved and suited to your specific needs.”

Mrs Khanna was lost in thought for a few moments. “Why don’t we stick to our good old shampoo until we stumble upon a better alternative and maybe a decent dermatologist?” Mr Khanna suggested, his grin widening mischievously as he held up a shampoo bottle.

Mrs Khanna couldn’t help but give in. “Alright, alright, you win. Looks like we’re sticking to our usual shampoo after all.”

It was one of those raucous family gatherings where every corner echoed with laughter and chatter. Exuberantly catching up with relatives, I spotted my cousin Riya looking somewhat downcast in the jubilant crowd. As I approached her, I couldn’t help but notice her hair, which seemed to have acquired a light shade of grey, premature for someone in her early twenties.

“Hey, Riya, what’s up? Why the long face?” I asked. She sighed, running her fingers through her silver- streaked locks. “Oh, Manan bhai, it’s my hair. It’s turned grey and the grey is spreading like wildfire! I don’t know what to do.”

Riya went on to tell me how she had spotted one grey hair a couple of months ago and decided to pluck it. Since then, the number of her grey hair had just been multiplying. I decided to delve deeper into the mystery of her prematurely greying hair. “Hold on a sec, Riya. Let me get this straight. You’re telling me that you think plucking one grey hair has sparked a full-blown rebellion of silver strands on your head?”

She nodded solemnly, looking utterly perplexed. “Yes, it’s like they’re multiplying overnight! I don’t understand what’s happening.”

Our conversation was already earning a few curious glances from nearby relatives. I took her aside and said, “Oh, Riya, you sweet summer child! That is not how our hair works.”

Taking a deep breath to compose myself, I launched into a mock tirade against the absurd notion that plucking one grey hair leads to its proliferation.

“Listen, Riya, believe me when I say that grey hair isn’t contagious. It’s not like a Bollywood dance number in which one dancer infects the rest with their moves! Medically, it’s impossible to pluck a single grey hair and trigger the growth of more grey hairs from the same follicle. Each follicle typically produces only one hair. Plucking one grey hair won’t induce the surrounding hair to turn grey; greying is linked primarily to melanin changes within each individual hair.”

Riya’s eyes widened in surprise and she let out a nervous giggle at my analogy. “But then why is this happening to me, Manan bhai? Is there something wrong with me?”

I placed a comforting hand on her shoulder, adopting a mock-serious expression. “Why fikar, when Manan is here?” And then I explained the mystery of the premature greying of hair.

There are multiple reasons for this phenomenon, like stress, genetics, nutritional deficiencies…the list goes on.

In most cases, genetics may be the predominant factor behind the premature greying of hair. Research has also indicated the involvement of smoking and deficiencies. Even autoimmune conditions like vitiligo, pernicious anaemia, autoimmune thyroid disorders and Werner’s syndrome lead to premature greying of hair. Some studies have also suggested that environmental factors4 like ultraviolet light exposure and climate, medication use and inadequate nutrition also contribute to premature greying of hair.

Her face brightened slightly as she absorbed my words. “So you mean to tell me that I’m not doomed to resemble a distinguished elder statesman before my time?”

“Exactly!” I said. “But remember, rather than resorting to remedies based on superstition, it’s best to consult a good dermatologist who can diagnose the root cause of your greying hair and prescribe a suitable treatment.”

Just then, the sound of a popular Bollywood track blared from the speakers, prompting nearby relatives to start dancing vigorously. “Hey, Riya, let’s forget about your hair woes for now and join in the fun! Who knows, maybe a few dance moves will chase away those grey hairs!” I suggested with a grin.

Riya laughed, the tension dissipating from her features. “You’re right, Manan bhai. Let’s show them how it’s done!” And with that, we threw caution to the wind and joined the impromptu dance party, leaving Riya’s grey hair conundrum to be solved another day – preferably by a qualified dermatologist and not by plucking each silver strand in sight!

Excerpted with permission from But What Does Science Say?: 101 Health Myths Busted, Manan Vora, Penguin India.