How the historical Hauz Khas Village’s revamp in the 1990s transformed Delhi’s food scene

The sleepy dusty Hauz Khas Village was rejuvenated in the mid-1980s in the slipstream created by the Asian Games. Bina Ramani, the socialite-fashion designer, should be given credit for initiating the facelift by starting design studios and boutiques here. The creative artsy types were followed by travel and advertising agencies and bespoke tailors. Suresh Kalmadi, the politician, was among the first to see the potential of the place. Bistro, though on the first floor, created a buzz as a multi-cuisine fun place. For the politically well-connected, it wasn’t difficult to get approvals and licenses for eateries in congested lanes in buildings that seldom conformed to safety regulations in force regarding restaurants.

By the mid-1990s, Hauz Khas Village was the most happening place in town. It resembled a gastronomic Milky Way with many stellar constellations. Some blazed a trail like a comet, only to fade away, such as Gunpowder, once the go-to place for Malayali food, others seemed to enter from other galaxies. Entrepreneurs from Mumbai introduced concepts that had proved to be a runaway success in other metros: Social, Town Hall, SodaBottleOpenerWala, Naivedyam, Yeti and a number of small bakeries that started selling artisanal food and products.

Multiple cuisines became available on one main street and bylanes branching out of it: KFC, Dominoes, Thai, Italian, Greek, Arab, Korean, Mediterranean and many other Indian and foreign flavours were available. Some were BnB facilities, popular with better-off backpacking foreign tourists. The Bella Mia, owned by a former test cricketer, offered a fusion menu, a well-stocked bar and a fabulous view of the Hauz Shamsi built by Alauddin Khilji – the surrounding greenery creating the illusion of woodland in the heart of the city.

Dilli Haat, established in 1994 by Delhi Tourism, was first envisioned by Jaya Jaitley. It sought to bring craftspersons from all over India and provided space for eateries from different regions, to showcase the diversity of Indian cuisine. Bijoli Grill from Bengal had on its menu kosha mangsho, prawn cutlet, fish orly, aloo dom, Radhaballabhi; Awadhi Dastar Khwan offered galouti and kakori kebabs, shami and pulav; Kashmiri Wazwaan tempted walk-in guests with rishta, gushtaba, martswangan qorma, tsuk vangun, aloo bukhara qorma, and rogan josh. Rajasthan served pyaaz kachori, mirchi vada, ghewar, dal bati choorma. The Naga Kitchen had no qualms about mentioning pork and palate-scorching raja mirchi aka bhut jholakiya. A taste of Assam and Manipur introduced Delhi to other flavours from the North East. Peninsular India was represented by Tamil Nadu, and Anantam, that showcased delicacies from Kerala.

Prices were (and continue to be) extremely reasonable and tastes strive to be “authentic”. Entry fee to the Haat was low and entertainment free. One could pick up good quality handicrafts at bargain prices.

Connected very well even before the Metro reached INA, and adjacent to Kidwai Nagar West, Dilli Haat was the most preferred hang-out for youngsters and families on a small budget.

The arrival of the Golden Arches – the McDonald’s hamburgers – created quite a sensation in the Capital. The first outlet in India was opened in the Priya PVR complex in Vasant Vihar.

For some reason this plaza, in an upmarket residential colony, never really took off. The location on paper was ideal. There was a multiplex showing the latest movies and drawing youngsters like a magnet – couples who didn’t mind spending a lot more for their imported ice creams from Häagen Dazs. JNU was a short pleasant walk away – a readymade catchment area of customers always willing to try out something new.

PVR complex was one of the earliest food promenades. What let it down was poor maintenance. The fountains ran dry and became oversized dustbins. Khomchas selling momos and paranthas to menials, who manned the overcrowded parking lot and taxi stand, pulled down the stylish pretenders. It never could compete with the Vasant Vihar markets in A, C or D blocks.

Sugar & Spice started in 1989 as a bakery offering high quality cakes, pastries, puffs and patties. Its outlet at the Priya Complex in Vasant Vihar attracted a steady stream of discerning customers and created quite a buzz. Encouraged by its success, it opened shops in Khan Market, incorporating the establishment as a private limited company. This inspired other entrepreneurs to venture into the hitherto uncharted space of specialized food marts. Le Marche and Nature’s Basket, originally a Godrej company now owned by Spencer’s Retail, appeared when the younger generation of upwardly mobile Delhites had acquired the taste for imported cheeses, sauces, imported (frozen) sea food, assorted tinned delicacies and chocolates, artisanal breads and more. The butchers at the meat counter claimed to “sculpt and carve” the choicest cuts. Marinated tikkas and heat and eat kebab were introduced. Not that the imported stuff wasn’t available in the city before this but it was certainly not as easily accessible. Sprouting of stores selling ‘everything nice’ met the rising tide of expectations after the economic liberalization.

Nirula’s made way for McDonald’s in the Priya Complex. Earlier the trend-setting departmental store, the Modern Bazaar, was relocated here after it was gutted in the original site nearby. There were fancy bookstores like Fact and Fiction, and branches of Citibank. Other all-American fast-food joints like Pizza King soon entered the space. Across the courtyard stood “Thank God It’s Friday”, positioning itself somewhere between fast-food outlets and fine dining – elegantly informal. It wasn’t all American fast food. Arabian Nights did brisk business most evenings serving delicious shawarma and doner kebab. There were a few wine shops and small Chinese/Japanese restaurants dotted the scene.

Excerpted with permission from From The King’s Table to Street Food: A Food History of Delhi, Pushpesh Pant, Speaking Tiger Books.